Shifted sands: John Craven on deck with Abu Simbel behind himAt first it was just another hill of sand among the thousands that line the massive lake.
For three days we had been sailing and had seen no people, roads or villages along the lake's banks - just empty desert.
But as we came closer, it was obvious this particular mound was man-made; after all, there is no mistaking Abu Simbel.
Four 60ft statues of Ramesses the Second, ancient Egypt's most powerful king, guard the entrance to the great temple.
Carved out of the hillside in the 13th Century BC, this amazing feat is even more remarkable as it now stands 270ft higher than in the time of Ramesses.
In an international rescue operation in the Sixties, the temple and a smaller one next door dedicated to his wife Nefertari were hauled up piece by 30-ton piece.
The carefully numbered bits were reassembled in their entirety above the waters that flooded the countryside of Nubia and created Lake Nasser, where we were sailing.
At 350 miles long and 22 miles at its widest, the world's third-largest reservoir feels more like an inland sea. It was created by blocking the Nile at the Aswan High Dam.
So a vast amount of fresh water from the heart of Africa is stored in an area which has seen only one hour of rain in the past five years.
Many thousands take the 175-mile bus ride across the desert from Aswan to Abu Simbel. Others arrive at the specially built airport. But they approach Abu Simbel from behind.
On board our fine vessel, the Prince Abbas, we lucky few got the full-frontal view as the captain brought us within a few yards.
The chance to admire Abu Simbel from the waters that once threatened its destruction was the reason my wife and I chose this cruise - that and the prospect of seven days' total relaxation in unqualified luxury.
Comfort: The MS Prince Abbas has 65 air-conditioned cabins that face outwards and only uses purified waterWe had 'done the Nile' from Luxor to Aswan a few years ago and enjoyed everything about it - the Valley of the Kings, the great temples at Philae and Karnak, bulrushes on the banks and hassles in the bazaars.
In those days, I must have borne a resemblance to a President of the United States because hawkers shouted: 'Give you good price, Mr Clinton!' We vowed that one day we would sail to Abu Simbel. Now we have done it and it was infinitely more peaceful than our Nile visit.
Reaching the Prince Abbas took five hours in a cramped charter plane followed by four in a coach.
But just as I was getting grumpy there it was, moored in an isolated spot, and all became worthwhile.
It was a small cruise ship rather than a river boat; a larger, modern version of the Thomas Cook paddle-steamer that first took tourists to Abu Simbel along the Nile more than 100 years ago. But our vessel had fake paddles and was powered by two diesel engines.
It was built 13 years ago. All 65 air-conditioned cabins face outwards and open on to varnished wooded walkways with brass rails. Their large windows are one-way in daylight, so you can see out but no one can see in.
But at night you need to pull the curtains which, as we strolled past, one naked guest had forgotten to do! The affable Nubian crew were attentive and the buffet meals in the elegant dining room were all one would expect of a Swiss-managed vessel.
Imposing: The temple of Abu Simbel is guarded by four 60ft statues of Ramesses the Second, ancient Egypt's most powerful kingEverything was freshly prepared and though most visitors to Egypt worry about 'gyppy tummy', we were encouraged to eat everything, from salads onwards. In the kitchens only purified water was used so not one of our 30-strong party suffered any stomach problems.
The ship followed a channel that marked the original route of the Nile, now 60ft beneath us. When the dam was built, the 90,000 peasant farmers and nomads who had lived along the river were relocated.
Aside from Abu Simbel, we stopped at half a dozen other temples and monuments that had also been moved, some as far as 30 miles.
Between excursions, we lazed. On the sundeck was a whirlpool, pool and bar but our favourite spot was the large, oriental-style outdoor lounge one deck below at the stern. Under its tented awning were couches with incredibly comfortable cushions and a white-coated steward to tend to our needs.
There were occasional excitements - such as twice crossing the Tropic of Cancer, and my wife spotting a Nile crocodile. Fishermen claim croc numbers are getting out of control.
When we reached Abu Simbel, a few of us got up at daybreak and walked to the temple to watch the sun come up and bathe the statues in a glorious pinkish glow.
The place was deserted apart from a group of Japanese tourists who sat with their backs to Ramesses and, perhaps appropriately, seemed more interested in the rising sun than the temple.
Cruising through the desert is a unique way to absorb both ancient Egypt and the modern miracles of archaeologists and water engineers. If you haven't already travelled the Nile from Luxor to Aswan, I'd say do that first. Otherwise, you might find the Prince Abbas just a little too laid-back.
But for me it was perfect.
Travel factsA seven-night Sailing Through The Desert cruise on Lake Nasser costs from £997. This includes return flights from Gatwick, transfers, full board on the five-star MS Prince Abbas (above), a sightseeing itinerary and the services of guides and local representatives.
A seven-night extension in Alexandria, Cairo and Luxor is available from £745. Call Voyages Jules Verne on 0845 166 7035 or visit www.vjv.com.
source: dailymail
