Starlight stop-off: Nick Metcalfe arrives in Emeryville, near San FranciscoMy latest rail adventure landed me in Seattle, where, on a lovely spring morning I contemplated two journeys of 22 hours each within a week.
I was travelling on Amtrak’s ‘Coast Starlight’ service between Seattle and San Francisco. This isn’t a journey I'd recommend if you were in a hurry but if, like me, you want to experience America’s West Coast at a leisurely pace, I guarantee there isn't a more civilised way of travelling between the big towns and cities.
The trains aren’t particularly new or indeed luxurious but they are comfortable and extremely clean. I saw staff using a Hoover during my trip, and the standard of cleanliness in the toilets made me reflect sadly on how disgraceful they can be on British trains.
I was pleased to discover that I would have plenty of leg room in my reclining seat (which can rarely be said about air travel of course) and lots of surrounding space for luggage.It quickly became clear that for most of the journey I would be gazing out of the window, so delightful were the views. As the train made its first stop at Tacoma, and then later Olympia, the sight of the giant waterways of Puget Sound were never far away and by the time the train arrives in Vancouver (not that one, the small town in Washington state) and moves towards Portland the beautiful Willamette river is a constant companion.
By this stage I had made my way to the observation car, a lovely roomy carriage with huge windows. This is the perfect place to spend daylight hours on the train, giving you a much clearer and unobstructed view of the wonderful scenery.
A chance to explore: The Portland skyline is seen across the beautiful Willamette RiverThe train sometimes stops for a few minutes when it pulls into a station, and for as much as an hour on occasion. We were given a chance at Portland to leave the train and briefly explore the town before heading back.
As we left Springfield - known to millions as the fictional home of The Simpsons - darkness was falling and we began climbing into the Cascades mountain range for more fantastic sunset views.
Any disappointment I felt that the cloak of night had prevented us seeing any more of the natural beauty that evening disappeared when an experienced fellow passenger informed me that the route is planned to ensure daylight at different times on the way back.
Meal times were a hassle-free affair, with a member of the train staff making their way through the train and booking you in for an allotted time in the dining car. The food was slightly pricey but far from ridiculous. I paid $22 (around £14) for steak with a jacket potato and vegetables that evening.
If you don’t want to sit and eat in the dining car, there are plenty of hot snacks in the well-stocked buffet car – from pizza to burgers and chicken wings. Bring as many of your own drinks as possible though - bottles of water at $2 each can be an expensive business.
One of the joys of a long train journey is the people that you meet – I’ve been lucky to bump into all sorts of memorable characters on the rattler over the years.A grandfather, Bruce, told me of his lifetime in the fishing industry, while Suzanne recounted her experiences as a volunteer at the recent Winter Olympics and Bob his work as a pilot in the 1950s. Katherine was full of stories having just returned from months of charity work in India, while Ted just wanted to hear about life in London.
And no subject was out of commission: from September 11 to President Obama, from worldwide economic woes to the new baseball season
Entrancing views: The towering Mount Shasta provides the perfect backdropLate in the evening we stopped for long enough to leave the train, and found that snow was underfoot. We truly were experiencing four seasons in one day.
I booked my journey eight months in advance and paid $184 (£122) for my reclining seat, which is staggering value.
If you want a bed in a sleeper, it will generally cost you around three times more than the price of a seat – any food that you order in the dining car does come for free though.
Breathtaking: Passengers take in the view as the train rolls past snowy scenes in the Cascades RangeAfter spending a few days in fantastic San Francisco, it was with more trepidation that I approached the return journey. It is one thing to have California in your mind as a final destination, quite another when Wandsworth lies on the horizon.
I needn’t have worried though – the soothing smooth passage of the train, and more lovely characters on board, provided the ideal relaxant.
And, after a few hours sleep on a makeshift bed across three seats in the observation car, I woke to the unforgettable sight of the sun coming up over the mountains
Final destination: The trip offers the chance to spend a couple of days exploring San FranciscoFor the next few hours we were entranced by the views in the Cascades Range, with the Sacramento River winding its way through dense forests and the towering Mount Shasta in the distance. There were actual gasps from the punters as we rattled past a sheer drop and the most gorgeous snowy scenes.
As the train spent the day making its unhurried way back to Seattle, I was already mentally planning future rail journeys. Next time I might even upgrade to a sleeper...and I very much doubt I'll have to ask for a 'room with a view'.
Travel factsNick Metcalfe booked his recliner seat on the Seattle to San Francisco service direct at www.amtrak.com. Booking several months in advance is the best way to secure lower priced tickets.
For more information on visiting California, log on to www.visitcalifornia.co.uk
source: dailymail
